Abbreviations
beg – begin/beginning
bet — between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously
made: e.g., ch-1 space
ch-sp – refers to chain or space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont — continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches
together (decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2
stitches together
inc – increase
lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog — together
WS — wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook
Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around
a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit
inside ¼ inch (.6 cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your
thread wraps around 12 times, then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.
Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use
around a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps
that fit inside ½ inch (1.3 cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if
your thread wraps around 30 times, then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton.
Materials:
• Size 30 cotton thread, light brown, or color of choice (Color A) – 1 ball Size 30
thread, off-white, or color of choice (Color B) – about 25 yds
Note: Bear may be made all in one color if desired.
• Size 10 (1.3mm) crochet hook
• Fiberfill
• Two 2-mm black onyx beads for eyes
• Two ¼” by 1/16″ joint disks
• One 1/16″ by ½” cotter pin
• Black embroidery thread (or color desired for features)
• Upholstery or other strong thread similar in color to bear for jointing
• Nylon or other strong black thread for sewing on eyes
• Sewing Needles (Suggestions: nr 7 darner or milliner’s needle for jointing and eyes, nr
26 tapestry needle for closing, nr 9 embroidery needle for features, and nr 10 beading
needle for eyes.)
• Small hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for curling cotter pins
• Watercolor pencil or makeup for shading (brown and light pink) – optional
You may use other types and sizes of thread to make Boo Bear, with a size hook that’s
appropriate for the thread used. (The size of your bear may vary from mine because of a
difference in tension). Size 30 thread, size 12 perle cotton, or punch thread and a size 10
hook will make a bear just under 3 inches; use a size 12 hook for an even smaller bear.
You can also make him larger by using a sport-weight mohair yarn and a size 7 hook, for
instance, which makes a 4-3/4 inch bear. Be sure to change the size of the eyes and joint
pins and disks accordingly.
Head (Vertical Muzzle):
1. With color B ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch; 3 sc in last ch; continuing
around to opposite side of chain, sk 1st free lp (opposite ch where you just made the 3
sc), sc in next 3 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp, do not join – use a piece of contrasting thread
or other marker to mark the beginning of rounds.
• The beginning of the rounds is the bottom of the head. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around; FO color B with sl st in next sc. Note: If making single color
bear, do not FO, but sl st in last sc and continue in color A. (15 sc)
6. Join color A with sc in sc after sl st; sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc
in next sc, sc in next 3 sc; do not join, place marker. (19 sc) Note: If making single
color bear begin this round with “sc in sc after sl st;”.
7. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 12 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (31 sc)
8. Sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next
7 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (41 sc)
9. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (39 sc)
• At this point it’s helpful to place a marker at the bottom center of the muzzle to assist
with placement of the cotter pin, if you are jointing the head with a cotter pin and disk
joint.
10. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc)
twice. (35 sc)
11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)
13. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc. (33 sc)
14 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
17. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in
next sc. (29 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times; last st will go into next row; replace rnd marker after
the last sc. (23 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (23)
• At this point, place a disk onto a cotter pin; insert the pin into the head and out the
center bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the middle of the
snout, easing the pin through carefully so as not to tear your fabric. Now begin stuffing
the head, then check to make sure that the cotter pin is positioned correctly. You may find
that you need to remove the stuffing and reposition it. Repeat the process until you’re
satisfied that the cotter pin is where it should be.
Tip: Stuffing requires a lot of patience. If the pieces are not stuffed adequately, your
bear will not have the shape and look that it should, and it could look cheap and
shoddy. I use a small hemostat for stuffing mini-bears. With it I can “feel” empty spots
that need additional stuffing, but use whatever method works for you. By the same
token, you don’t want to overstuff the piece, causing the stitches to gape and show the
stuffing!
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times, sc2tog. (15 sc)
• Continue stuffing the head, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek area on
each side of the muzzle. Check shaping from all angles.
21. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
22. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 7 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving
long end to use for closing.
• Add a bit more stuffing if needed. Thread long end on the tapestry needle and sew a
row of gathering stitches, going in and out of the front loops around rnd 22; pull firmly to
gather and close the end. Fasten off and secure. (Be extra careful if using punch thread to
close; it breaks easily when pulled too hard.)
Tip: Hide your loose thread ends by inserting thread onto a needle, then inserting the
needle into the body piece and out at another location. Always go in and out of the
fabric between stitches, and be careful not to catch any of the fabric when you do this.
Pull the thread taut, and use sharp scissors to clip the thread close to the surface.
Eyes:
Eye Sockets (Optional): Thread the darning or milliner’s needle (should be about 2-1/2
inches long) using upholstery or other strong thread to match the body and knot the
end. Insert the needle up into the bottom part of the head and run it through the head a
couple of time to anchor the thread. (Make sure that you go out of and back in the
same place, between stitches, when you do this.) Next bring the needle out at the left
eye location. Take a stitch the width of one sc, pushing the needle through the head to
the right eye location. Pull firmly to make a slight indentation for the left eye. Take a
stitch the width of one sc, inserting the needle into head at right eye location, and back
out at left eye location. Pull firmly to make an indentation for the right eye. Repeat
once if necessary. Keeping thread taut, insert needle into left eye socket, and bring it out
the bottom of head. Run the thread through the head once more, and fasten off
securely, making sure that eye sockets remain indented.
• At this point you may use watercolor pencils, fabric markers, or eye shadow on a cotton
swab to shade the eye area, if desired. If using punch thread or mohair, you may brush
the finished pieces carefully with a mohair finger brush for a slightly fuzzy look.
Attach eyes: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good
for this) to locate the eye positions. Sew the eyes on with black
nylon or other strong thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle,
such as a milliner’s needle, with nylon or other strong thread. If
using wire-looped eyes, crimp the wire loop with pliers, if it’s not
pre-crimped, until you can just get your needle through the loop;
insert the needle through the loop (or bead), and then remove the
thread from the needle. If you can’t get your needle through the
wire or bead, insert the thread through first, then thread the needle.
Thread both ends back onto the needle, and then insert the needle
into the first eye location. *Bring the needle out the back or
bottom of the head (depending on the angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire
loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the same place where the needle
went in (use a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if necessary), pushing it flush
against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into the
face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back
into the exact place,** then push through the head and out at the second eye location.
Insert the threaded needle through the eye wire or bead (once again, if your needle
won’t go through the opening, remove the thread from the needle, insert it through the
eye wire or bead, then rethread the needle). Insert the needle into the 2nd eye location,
then repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd eye, bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of
the head. Tie off the ends with a surgeon’s knot, then thread the ends onto the needle
and insert back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull though the head.
Clip ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head.
Tip: Don’t be afraid to experiment with eye, brow, nose, and mouth shape and
placement, as well as ear placement. Sometimes the most far-out facial renderings make
the cutest bears. Make each bear an individual!
Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows:
Embroider the nose using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery thread. With
same thread, embroider 1 straight stitch beginning at the bottom center of nose, about 2
or 3 sc in length, depending on the look you want. Finally, make an inverted v-stitch for
the mouth, with center being at the bottom of the center straight stitch. Using 2 strands
of black floss, embroider a straight st for each brow above each eye.
Ears (Make 2):
Note: For bi-color ears, work rows 1 – 3 with color B, then change to
color A to work rows 4 – 6.
1. With color A ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. 5 inc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (Inc, 2 sc) 3 times; inc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
5. (Dec; 2 sc) 3 times; dec; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. 5 dec; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. 5 sc; fasten off, leaving long end for sewing ear to head. (This is the back of the ear.)
Attach ears: With front facing you, flatten ear horizontally; then sew bottom opening
of ear together from side to side. Fold ear vertically towards front, bringing ear into a
cup shape with front forming inside of cup. Tack bottom left front corner to bottom
right front corner. Sew ear to head, maintaining cup shape, with back center point of ear
placed 2 or 3 rows behind center front. Shade the inside of the ear, if you wish.
Body:
1. With color A ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in
next 7 sc. (34 sc)
7. Sc in ea around. (34 sc)
• Attach Head: Insert the head cotter pin into the top of the body at the
center of rnd 1. Place the second disk onto the pin and push it onto the pin
until it is touching the fabric. Use your pliers to curl the legs of the pin under
until they rest snugly on the disk.
8 – 11. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
12. Sc in next 11 sc, (2 sc in next sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (40 sc)
13. Sc in next sc around. (40 sc)
14. Sc in next 12 sc, place marker (use a 2-inch piece of contrasting thread), (2 sc in next
sc, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next 2 sc, place another marker, sc in next 12 sc. (46
sc)
• Markers will be used to assist with placement of head, arms, and legs, so be careful not
to pull them out.
15. Sc in next sc around. (46 sc)
16. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (42 sc)
18. Sc in next 6 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (35 sc)
19. Sc in ea around. (35 sc)
20. Sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (26 sc)
21. Sc in ea sc around. (26 sc)
• At this point, begin stuffing the body. Insert a little bag of steel shot for weight, if you
wish.
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog. (17 sc)
23. Sc in ea sc around. (17 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
24. Sc2tog 8 times, sl st in next sc; FO, leaving a long end for closing. (8 sc, sl st)
• Add more stuffing, if needed. Close same as for head.
Tip: Did you know that your state of mind or the way you feel physically can affect
your crochet tension? Since that can significantly affect the size and tightness of your
stitches, it’s advisable, when making two of anything such as arms or legs, to make both
of the pair at the same sitting. Otherwise, you may end up with one arm or leg shorter
than the other.
Left Arm:
1. With Color A ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on
opposite side of ch, sc in next 3 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 7. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
8. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc (loosely so you
will be able to work into the sl st on the next round. If the sl st is too tight, it will be very
difficult to work into). (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
10. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
11 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
16 – 17. Sc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
• Begin stuffing arm.
18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (15 sc)
20 – 23. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
24. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. (13 sc)
25. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; FO with sl st in next sc.
(11 sc )
• Finish stuffing. Thread end on needle, then sew the end of the arm closed using a ladder
stitch or overhand stitch through the outer loops. The seam should run front to back (the
sl st at the wrist are on the inside of the arm.). FO securely and hide end inside arm.
Right Arm:
1 – 15. Work same as Right Arm.
16 – 17. Sc in next 5 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 5 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
• Begin stuffing arm.
18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (15 sc)
20 – 25. Work same as Left Arm.
Attach arms:
Use the darning needle and upholstery or other strong thread, doubled; not knotted.
Insert needle into first shoulder area of bear and run it through the body a couple of
times to anchor the thread (Leave a 2-1/2 inch tail protruding from the first shoulder.);
bring the needle out at the second shoulder. When arms are at the bear’s sides, the
inner elbow should be just behind the marking threads. [Insert needle into inner side of
arm and through to outer arm. Insert needle back into outer arm in the same place
where it came out, dip the needle inside the arm to grab some stuffing, and bring it out
the inner the arm in the exact spot where it went in. Then take the needle back through
the body, always using the same entry and exit spots, and out the opposite shoulder.]
Repeat within [ ] for the second arm. Repeat the entire process once more if you wish.
Pull gently but firmly to pull the arms firmly against the body. Cut thread, leaving a tail;
tie off the starting and ending tails with surgeon’s knots, then thread the tails onto the
needle and pull into body and out the other side. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to
surface so that it disappears inside body. Finish by using one strand of black floss to
embroider 3 or 4 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches on the end of each paw, for
claws.
Legs (Make 2):
1. With color B (or main color if bear is one color) ch 2, make 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook;
ch 1, turn. ( 3 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
3 – 6. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. 2 sc in next c, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
9. 2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sl st in same pl as last hdc, ch 1, (2 hdc in next sc, hdc
in next sc, sl st in same sc, ch 1) twice, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in last sc, sl st in same sc; FO.
(12 hdc, 4 sl st, 3 ch-1).
10. With right side facing and working in row ends along side of foot, join color A with
sc in beg ch at center of heel; sc in end of rows 1 – 8, 2 sc in end of row 9, sl st in same pl
as last sc, now, skipping the ch-1 spaces, (sc in next 3 hdc, sl st in next sl st) 4 times; now
working down the side of the foot, make 2 sc in end of row 9, sc in end of rows 8 – 1;
finally, sc in the same pl with the 1st sc; do not join; place marker. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
11. Working in BL (optional), sc in next 11 sc, sl st in next sl st, (sc in next 3 sc, sl st in next
sl st) 4 times, sc in next 11 sc. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
12. Working in both loops, repeat rnd 11. (34 sc, 4 sl st)
• Note: Make all dec as tightly as possible to avoid wide gaps in tops of feet. It is
inevitable that you will have small holes in the work when this number of decreases are
worked over each other, but the idea is to keep them as tiny as possible.
13. Sc in next 4 st, sl st in next 4 st, sc in next 5 st, sc2tog 6 times, sc in next 5 st, sl st in
next 4 st, sc in next 5 st. (25 sc, 8 sl st)
14. Sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sl st in next 3 st, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times, sl st in next 3
st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st. (20 sc, 6 sl st)
15. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker here to begin rnd here (this is to reposition the
starting point, and does not change the stitch count), sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog 6 times, sc in
next 7 sc. (20 sc)
16. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 6 sc. (16 sc)
17 – 18. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
• Stuff foot. Begin by pushing tiny pieces of fiberfill into each toe with a small hemostat or
other small tool. Shape foot as you stuff, keep narrower instep and toe definition as much
as possible.
19 – 22. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
• Continue stuffing every few rounds.
23. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2
sc, sc in next 7 sc. (18 sc)
24– 27. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
28. Sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (17
sc)
29. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (16 sc)
30. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
31. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(12 sc)
• Close using the same method used for arms.
Sculpt toes (Optional):
Thread a needle with a color as similar as possible to the bear; knot end. Insert the
needle (always work between the crochet stitches) and pull the knot inside the leg. Run
the needle through the leg a couple of times to secure the thread, being careful not to
catch any fabric. Now bring the needle out on top of foot bet rnds 12 and 13, directly
above the place where 1st toe definition begins. *Take a stitch the width of one sc, going
straight down and out the bottom of the foot bet rows 7 and 8. Pull thread firmly to
create indentation. Keeping thread taut throughout to maintain indentations, make a
straight stitch horizontally to the side of the foot, even with space bet rows 7 and 8, just
behind rnd 11, and out again on top of foot above bet 2nd and 3rd toes. Take a stitch the
width on one sc, bringing needle out on bottom of foot bet rows 7 and 8. *Take a
horizontal straight stitch to your left, and insert needle in the bottom of foot in same
place as beginning of previous horizontal straight stitch.* Bring needle out at top front
of foot bet 3rd and 4th toes, take a stitch the width on one sc, bringing needle out directly
below. Repeat * to * above, coming out once again bet the 3rd and 4th toes. Go back in
at the same place, and come out on bottom directly below. Make the final horizontal
straight st by taking the thread to your right, and inserting the needle right behind rnd 11,
even with the sp bet rows 7 and 8, as you did on the opposite side of the foot. Bring
the needle back out bet 1st and 2nd toes, just above rnd 11. Make a vertical straight stitch,
bringing the needle down and inserting it where the 1st and 2nd horizontal stitches meet
on bottom of foot. Continue to keep the thread taut to maintain indentations. Come
back out bet the 2nd and 3rd toes, and repeat the process; then repeat once again bet the
3rd and 4th toes. Keeping thread taut, run the needle through the foot several times to
secure thread, making sure you always go in and out between stitches so as not to catch
any fabric and make unwanted indentations!
Leg Sockets: (Optional)
Thread the darning or milliners needle with thread similar in color to body. Leaving a 2-
inch tail at the beginning, insert needle into side of body about 4 rows up from bottom
of body directly down from arm joint; bring needle out in same place on opposite side.
Insert needle back into body three rows up; bring out on opposite side of body 3 rows
above tail. Insert needle back into body in same place where tail protrudes, and bring
out on opposite side in same place as previous exit point. Go back through to the
opposite side once more, and pull to indent the sockets. Attach legs: Continuing, insert
needle back into body one sc width down from exit point, push through the body, and
bring out at same place on opposite side. Now use the same method to attach the legs
as used for arms.
Overalls:
Materials:
• Thread in color of choice – use the same size thread and hook as used for the bear
• Three 4mm doll buttons (for 3-inch bear; adjust size for larger bear)
• Sewing thread to match overalls and buttons
• Sewing needle, tapestry needle
1. Ch 41, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 2, turn. (Ch-2 counts as hdc.)
(40 hdc)
2 – 4. Hdc in ea hdc across; ch 2, turn. At end of row 4, join with sl st in top of beg ch2.
(40 sc)
First leg:
5. Hdc in next 19 hdc, ch 6, join with sl st in top of beg ch-2; FO. (20 hdc, 6 ch)
6. With RS facing, join with sl st in BL of 4th ch of ch-6, ch 2, hdc in next 2 ch, hdc in
next 20 hdc, hdc in next 3 ch; join in top of beg ch-2, ch 1, do not turn. (26 hdc)
7. Working in BL for this row, sc in same pl as joining and in next 9 hdc, 2 sc in next
hdc, sc in next 12 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in next 3 hdc, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (28
sc)
Second leg:
5. With WS facing you, join with sl st in 4th free lp of ch-6 at crotch, ch 2, hdc in next 2
free lps, hdc in next hdc on row 4, hdc in next 19 hdc, hdc in next 3 ch; join with sl st in
top of beg ch-2, ch 2, turn. (26 hdc)
6. Hdc in next hdc and in next 24 hdc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2, ch 1, turn. (26
hdc)
7. Working in BL for this row, sc in same pl as joining and in next 9 hdc, 2 sc in next
hdc, sc in next 12 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in next 3 hdc, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (28
sc)
Optional Cuff Row for Both Legs: Ch 2, turn; working in BL; hdc in same pl, (Hdc in
next 4 sc, 2 hdc in next sc) 5 times, hdc in next 3 sc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-2;
FO. (35 hdc)
• Depending on the thread or yarn used, you may need to tack the cuff to the shorts.
• There will be small gaps at the front and rear crotch where the stitches don’t quite meet.
Using the same thread as pants, tack the stitches together, closing the gaps.
• Weave loose thread ends.
Waist Band and Placket:
1. With RS facing, join pants color with sc in 1st free lp of foundation ch at waist, sc in
next 39 free lps, ch 1, sc in side of sc just made, ch 3 (buttonhole), sc in end of next row,make 6 more sc,
evenly spaced, down the right back opening, sl st in the center bottom
between the 2 sides, then make 7 sc, evenly spaced, up the left back opening, with the
last sc being in the end of the 1st sc made on this row; ch 1, turn. (55 sc, 1 sl st, ch-3
buttonhole)
2. Sc in next 6 sc, sl st in next sc; FO. (6 sc, sl st)
• Sew a button (or bead) to the top left side of the waist.
Bib:
1. With RS facing, sk 1st 15 sc of waist band, join with sl st in BL of next sc, ch 2, hdc in
next 9 sc; ch 2, turn. (10 hdc) (Turning ch-2 counts as 1st hdc.)
2. Hdc in next 9 hdc; ch 2, turn. (10 hdc)
3. Ch 1 (buttonhole), sk next hdc, hdc in next 6 hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in last hdc;
FO. (7 hdc, 2 ch-1 sp)
Left Strap:
1. With RS of back facing, skip 2 sc on waistband, join with sc in next sc, sc in next sc; ch
1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 13. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. FO after row 13. (2 sc)
Right Strap:
1. With RS of back facing, join with sc in 4th sc from the right edge of waist band, sc in
next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 13. Repeat 2 – 13 of Left Strap.
• Weave loose thread ends.
• Sew a button to top of each strap near front end.
• Embellish with contrasting stitches around the legs and bib, if you wish.
